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Tao Kurihara was born in Japan in 1973, graduated from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in 1997, and joined the COMME des GARÇONS Group the following year. In 2002, she was responsible for the design of the tricot COMME des GARÇONS brand. For the 2005 autumn and winter series, Tao Kurihara launched tao COMME des GARÇONS with her personal name and released her collection during Paris Fashion Week.

11 years ago, Tao Kurihara’s label, simply named Tao, ceased to exist. Under the umbrella of her mentor and COMME des GARÇONS founder, Rei Kawakubo, Tao showed from a/w 2005 until s/s 2011.


这一切都源于对紧身胸衣的精心改良;只不过在栗原的手中,这种胸衣是电缆编织的,带有褶皱针织蕾丝边,以不那么女性化的校服灰色为主色调。虽然她可能还没准备好大量购买这种美学--它既昂贵又极端--但她会非常乐意看到和读到这种美学。她可以在《W》杂志的版面上看到这一点,对于一个首次推出的系列来说,这的确是一个很好的报道。

As the history of the tricot COMME des GARÇONS brand can be traced back to 1981, the brand name change was intended to be ‘completely taken over’ by the third-generation designer Tao Kurihara. Prior to this, the leading tricot COMME des GARÇONS designs were: Rei Kawakubo & Junya Watanabe. Although the brand was renamed Tao, the original design team was retained, and the overall operation of the brand remained the same.


 

一向对媒体讳莫如深的川久保非常欣赏栗原的作品,因此破例保持沉默,并在该杂志上发表了评论: "日本人没有赞美自家人的习惯,但我认为这个系列很好,因为它有一种概念和年轻的感觉。

接下来是一个完全以手帕(主要是找到的瑞士古董手帕)和风衣为主题的系列。"栗原在谈到那一季的产品时解释说:"我被风衣强烈、酷炫、明确的形式所吸引 "但我想做一些与传统的、防水的、功能性的风衣截然不同的东西。因此,我选择了易碎和熟悉的东西:手帕"。

虽然她的尝试取得了成功,但她在 2011 年决定停止其签名系列的工作,是因为 Kurihara 想要"改变我的生活方式--婚姻可能是一个导火索"。

当然,栗原并不是第一位或最后一位做出这种举动的天才设计师,虽然她在巴黎的存在令人怀念,但她继续设计 Tricot,该品牌在多佛街市场有售,并一直在日本享有很高的知名度。"我的意图是为这个品牌设计出那种新颖而令人兴奋的日常服装。

From the spring 2022 season, COMME des GARÇONS opted to rebrand its Tricot line as Tao, with Tao Kurihara remaining at the helm. In a mini show at the company’s offices in Tokyo, the designer turned out a collection of loose-fitting dresses in white and black.

As the name change was announced, Tao invited the media and relevant stakeholders to hold a fashion show in the headquarters of the COMME des GARÇONS Group in Minami Aoyama, Tokyo, and release a new 2022 spring and summer series with the theme of ‘white’. With ‘my white’ as the core concept, the entire series is based on white, gray, and ivory, and incorporates various fold designs such as pleated and waved frills to change the silhouette of the clothing. It is made of complex handwork and delicate texture. The clothing presents a doll-like style. Some Japanese fashion media said, "Let people dream back to the Tao COMME des GARÇONS era."


造型: Kurihara 以层层薄纱、层层荷叶边和蓬蓬袖增加了服装的体积感,从而抵消了简洁的 A 字轮廓和长款设计。纺织品采用白色或黑色的单调色调,但通过色调刺绣、提花和透明雪纺上的微妙印花增加了质感。


亮点单品 紧排褶皱的剪裁衬衫和小腿长裙搭配简单的白色 T 恤和平底鞋,而由裹身短袖针织上衣和不对称荷叶边短裙组成的全黑套装则不简单。


启示 该系列是对如何在避免使用色彩的同时创造深度和动感的研究。丰满的造型、复杂的细节和丰富的纺织品证明,当采用专业剪裁的图案打造出抢眼的轮廓时,华丽的色调是远远不必要的。

 


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